York Fashion Week AW23 showcases new designers and vintage expert know-how

Yorkshire fashionistas are leading the way in sustainable fashion thinking, as Stephanie Smith finds out as she previews York Fashion Week, which takes place across the city later this month.

When York Fashion Week launches later this month, it will bring together a community of talented people intent on flying the flag for Yorkshire design, creativity and, perhaps most importantly, its pioneering approach to sustainability.

The week falls at the tail end of Second Hand September, the Oxfam-led campaign that promotes donating, reusing, rewearing and restyling clothes for this month, and hopefully, long after. A highlight of YFW will be a short film featuring Tee Hurwitz Gray, who has been at the forefront of pre-loved style for decades. She is the founder True-Street Curators, a pre-loved sustainable fashion brand stocked at TV expert Tim Hogarth’s antiques emporium The Red House in York.

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Tee says: “After spending 30 years in London, living with high levels of pollution and the climate emergency looming large, a few years ago I returned to my native Yorkshire and wanted to reimagine pre-owned fashion, reinvigorating all those heady styling moments from the early days of magazines such as The Face and ID, when the various style tribes were influenced from the aftermath of the punk DIY days, with customisations and vintage finds - be they from Portobello Market or a designer store.”

House of Zana at the York Fashion Week Indie Retail show for SS23. Image courtesy of Lyndon Smith Photography.House of Zana at the York Fashion Week Indie Retail show for SS23. Image courtesy of Lyndon Smith Photography.
House of Zana at the York Fashion Week Indie Retail show for SS23. Image courtesy of Lyndon Smith Photography.

Tee began at The Red House by filling glass cabinets with silver brutalist rings and bracelets from the 1960s and 1970s, plus handbags and edgy statement pieces also from the ‘80s, ‘90s and early 21st century, often drawing on her extensive and well-preserved Vivienne Westwood collection.

She will be showing a film telling the story of True-Street Curators and looking at the benefits of the circular economy, after which she will chat with Sam Hudson-Miles, Leeds Beckett University Fashion course director.

Tim Hogarth says: “Fashion has always been very important in the world of antiques and The Red House has for many years had a dedicated room selling vintage and sustainably sourced pre-owned clothing and accessories.

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“Vintage clothing opens up the world of art and antiques to a younger generation who previously may have felt the world of traditional antiques wasn’t for them.

Tee Hurwitz Gray, founder of True-Street Curators, with her “customised sustainable nuptials head attire, using vintage paste and lace”.Tee Hurwitz Gray, founder of True-Street Curators, with her “customised sustainable nuptials head attire, using vintage paste and lace”.
Tee Hurwitz Gray, founder of True-Street Curators, with her “customised sustainable nuptials head attire, using vintage paste and lace”.

“Pre-owned fashion opens the doors for sustainable and financially minded people to add value by investing in previously owned luxury brands that would be unobtainable to them in the luxury shops of the world. Pre-owned gives everyone the opportunity to own designer labels at a fraction of their original ticket price. Antiques and pre-owned clothing make extremely good bedfellows and will continue to halt the road to landfill.”

York Fashion Week launched in 2018 to champion grass roots and independent designers, bringing together a community of talented creatives, fashionistas, stylists and volunteers determined to make an impact in the fashion industry.

York Fashion Week runs from September 28, details here: www.yorkfashionweek.com These are the highlights:

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Mannequin: Thursday, September 28 to Monday, October 2, 11am-2pm. This installation will take place in store windows and venues across the city. An ode to the 80’s classic film, Mannequin! Wander through the streets of York and find YFW models in the windows of some of your favourite high streets shops including Master Debonair, Hobbs, Leia Lingerie, Jigsaw and Fenwick York.

A live mannequin surprises York visitors at Hobbs. Picture by Brian Rothery.A live mannequin surprises York visitors at Hobbs. Picture by Brian Rothery.
A live mannequin surprises York visitors at Hobbs. Picture by Brian Rothery.

Fashion Avenue: Thursday, September 28, 11.50am-5.30pm, DoubleTree by Hilton York. A free day of talks and lectures for students, dedicated to the exploration of the different avenues of work within fashion. Meet stylists, makers, milliners, editors and retailers who have all built their careers in the world of fashion.

True Street Curators Short Film and Q&A: Friday, September 29, 2-3.30pm, York Explore Library, Library Square, Museum Street. A short sustainable fashion film about the directional designer collectibles pre-owned brand, followed by a Q&A with founder Tee Hurwitz Gray and Sam Hudson-Miles, Fashion course director at Leeds Beckett University, and a pop-up boutique with Eye Wood Vintage.

YSL Beauty Masterclass: Friday, September 29, 2-3.30pm, Browns York, £5. A beauty masterclass with Helen Shaw, winner of YSL consultant of the Year 2023. Relax with a glass of fizz and let Helen share with you some of her expertise as lead make-up artist from YSL.

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Browns York AW23 Fashion Showcase: Friday, September 29, 3.30-4.30pm In-store fashion show showcasing the key trends for autumn/winter 2023, £5 includes a glass of prosecco and 10 per cent off any purchase on the day.

An official York Fashion Week T-shirt, £22.99, on the catwalk. Image courtesy of Lyndon Smith PhotographyAn official York Fashion Week T-shirt, £22.99, on the catwalk. Image courtesy of Lyndon Smith Photography
An official York Fashion Week T-shirt, £22.99, on the catwalk. Image courtesy of Lyndon Smith Photography

Also Friday, 11am-12.30pm, Browns York Bra Workshop and Lingerie Coffee Morning, £5. Meet Paulene Leese, part of the Wacoal Europe Expertise Fit Team, ticket includes bra fit, refreshments and 10 per cent discount.

The Country Muse Runway: Friday, September 29, from 7pm, Malmaison York, £25, includes a glass of prosecco, gift tote-bag and fashion show brochure. Femme Country Magazine presents a country clothing show immersed with spirit, quality and diversity.

Full Image Masterclass: Friday, September 29, 10am-4pm, Hotel Du Vin York, £135. Join personal stylist Laura Fawcett and make-up artist Rachel Neilson for a luxury styling event in collaboration with Jigsaw, with Rachel and Laura on hand to offer top application techniques and advice, plus afternoon tea with a glass of fizz.

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Student and Graduate Show: Saturday, September 30, 8pm - 10pm, York Art Gallery, £18 + Eventbrite Fees. One of the biggest events on the YFW calendar, this is an incredible showcase of grassroots design from some of the most talented and innovative designers from across the country, staged for the first time in York Art Gallery.

The Fashion Week Pop-Up: Saturday, September 30 to Sunday, October 1, 12pm-6pm, Spark York 17-21 Piccadilly, York, free and no ticket required. A chance to shop some beautiful fashion from indie designers, including the official YFW Apparel. Stop in to support these local brands, buy their wares and enjoy some delicious food and drinks from Spark York