Why a visit to Hull Japanese restaurant Oishii Ne has Dave Lee drooling

I first encountered Tom Would and his Oishii Ne brand during their recent ill-fated tenure at the equally ill-fated House of Hammond food hall. I was impressed then with the food but not the setting. Now, with an impressive new setting, it’s very different story.

A Hull lad who fell in love with sushi while teaching in Japan, Tom took training at a ramen joint in Portugal and started Oishii Ne as a pop-up and takeaway while grounded back home during lockdown. His determination – against all obstacles – to become a sushi master has finally led to him opening his first permanent restaurant in the delightful surroundings of the Paragon Arcade in Hull city centre.

The glass-roofed Victorian arcade looks set to become a foodie paradise, with the highly-regarded Hispanist at one end, Oishii Ne at the other and several more food-based businesses apparently about to appear in between. This is an excellent development for the city. The arcade’s owners have experimented with food nights and they’ve proven hugely popular, so the idea of a permanent dining arcade right next to the City Hall (therefore perfect for pre-gig grub) is a very attractive one. At the moment there are only a couple of sticky carpet pubs within easy wander to accommodate the thousands of concert-goers desperate for sustenance. An arcade full of booze and food can’t help but attract them.

In Oishii Ne, the arcade has a great cornerstone for its plans. A small menu and limited upstairs seating makes it perfect for diving in of a lunchtime for a quick sushi hit and cosily exclusive for the evening crowd, when night-time actual dining begins. The dining space has been decorated with murals and the tables feature Sakura trees covered in little origami birds.

It all juxtaposes nicely with the austere steel and glass of the arcade you can see through the windows. The small menu, by the way, is no bad thing. All of it appeals and the portion sizes make re-ordering a delight. “Let’s just have another six” became the oft-repeated battle cry when I took my kids for a debut visit last week. Closely followed by “let’s just have yet another six”.

The menu changes pretty much daily but you’re likely to encounter options like umboshi plum roll or salmon and avocado roll or crab and garlic roll. You can already see that every option is extremely tempting, can’t you? The sushi all tastes great. Not the biggest I’ve ever had but also far from the most expensive. So it balances out and makes ordering another six permanently desirable.

The non-sushi offerings, again, vary daily but include a robust pork belly ramen, very moreish karaage fried chicken and the subtly spiced furikake tatties. The latter two go well together as a kind-of chicken and chips main but are also individually recommended. And then there are the gyoza. The usual varieties are available (pork, chicken, vegan etc) and they’re the second best I’ve ever had. The best were pork and celery from a stall in Newcastle’s Grainger Market.

I ate so many that I honestly thought I’d have to be rolled home. Being second best to those beauties is no disgrace. Especially recommended is the gyoza wheel. It’s an Oishii Ne invention and involves eight gyoza cooked tightly together so they form a crusty circle in the pan. They are then served inverted (so the crispy side is upper) to offer maximum crunch. Soft, crispy, juicy and tasty – everything you could want from gyoza.

Oishii Ne had been open only a few short weeks prior to my visit, so they were still juggling their drink and dessert menus. Drinks are currently limited to a small range of Japanese beers, saki, red wine and Fanta for the kids. I’m hoping for plum wine next time I visit.

Tom’s girlfriend was apparently responsible for making the Filipino banana floater I had. It may have been the only pud on offer but I wasn’t complaining. It was a creamy banana cake that was light (presumably why it’s called a floater) and delicious, like a fruity tiramisu. More desserts are planned, so expect expanded options when you visit.

And visit you should. Tom may be a neophyte restaurateur but he’s making a damn good fist of his first attempt. As his confidence and his skills increase, things can only improve, and he’s already operating from a perfectly solid starting point. Maintaining a food business has proven incredibly difficult for experienced caterers over the past couple of years. Starting a new food business during a pandemic – and expanding so soon after – proves that Tom has the hand to succeed. Based on my encounters with him and his excellent food, I don’t doubt he will.

The phrase “Oishii Ne” is apparently a much-used Japanese saying meaning “it’s delicious, right?” but – despite being a question – it’s delivered not as a query but as a statement. As if you know it’s delicious, the person you’re asking knows it’s delicious and you’re both simply confirming such to each other. I can confirm that Oishii Ne is delicious, so now you know, right?

Oishii Ne, 17 Paragon Arcade, Hull, HU1 3PQ, tel: 07526070274. Open: Tuesday to Saturday 11am-5.30pm, Sunday, 11am-3pm.

Welcome 5/5

Food 4/5

Atmosphere 4/5

Prices 4/5