Timble Inn, Timble, near Otley

The inn is a lovely characterful 18th century, grade-II listed former coaching house with all the oak beam and thick stone wall trimmings. Lovingly restored as a welcoming restaurant with rooms it can accommodate about 36 diners at any one time, most of whom will be seated in a spacious alcove or in a separate cosy dining area away from the bar. The furnishings are solid and traditional with dark wooden chairs and tables and leather sofas. There is an Inglenook fireplace for roaring log fires in the winter. There was a choice of seven starters, all comfortingly familiar and included soup of the day, pates, melon and scallops. Some might think this unadventurous. The trick is to bring a twist of originality to old favourites. The Posh Prawn cocktail was a case in point.

Arranged in a generously-sized dish containing a nest of crisp lettuce, the ample prawns (sourced from Ramus of Harrogate) were dressed in a home-made Marie Rose sauce, subtly flavoured with brandy. Accompaniments included quartered tomatoes and sliced cucumber, with a neatly arranged criss-cross of fresh chives. Seasoned with paprika, this was satisfying in presentation, quantity and in taste.

The deep fried camembert served with redcurrant jelly was also beautifully presented and cooked to exactly the right consistency. This dish can sometimes feel like eating savoury chewing gum, but here they got it just right: a crisp and tasty breadcrumb outer shell with the creamy cheese spilling gently out as you cut into it. Superb. The price of the starters range from 3.95 for the melon and winter fruits to 6.95 for the scallops with a gruyere and garlic butter gratin.

The range of main courses is limited to six to ensure every dish is fresh. All were reasonably priced from 8.95 to 12.95 and they included herb crusted salmon fillet, crab cakes, duck valentine and a homemade steak and kidney pie. The Beer Battered Haddock was deep fried in a gentle, light golden batter, with the flesh of the pure white fish flaking most pleasingly on the fork as well as melting in the mouth. This was served with hand cut chips and a suitably piquant tartare sauce. Special mention must be made of the mushy peas, served in a ramekin, and a touch sweeter than the norm, but all the more delicious for that, as well as being delicately minted. A mushroom stroganoff was one of the best I have tasted – button mushrooms delicately flambd in brandy with a creamy sauce and served on a bed of rice. Once again the chef had taken a well-known dish and injected a little individuality into it – textures and tastes were all perfectly combined. All the food is home-made and cooked to order. To accompany our meal we chose a bottle of French Pinot Noir. It was young, slightly fruity and, like all the wines on offer, sensibly priced. In addition to the main menu were three Spring specials – a creamy asparagus and petit pois risotto which could be ordered either as a starter or a main course; chicken breast stuffed with mozzarella served on a bed of ratatouille with rosemary roasted new potatoes; and for pudding a homemade treacle tart with vanilla ice cream.

The main dessert menu will probably satisfy the tastes of most pub/restaurant diners in that the small range on offer nevertheless includes old-fashioned favourites such as sticky toffee or bread and butter pudding, or a more recent favourite such as banoffee pie. The creamy, crunchy, fruity Eton Mess contained the optimum ratio of meringue to berries and the Orange Crme Brle is highly recommended. It combined a smooth double cream, vanilla pods, Cointreau (such a good idea!) and a toffee-like crusting which made this the perfect conclusion to a very satisfying meal.

We were served a good, properly roasted and Continental tasting coffee

to finish. The owners and staff could not have been more accommodating, friendly and charming. The food was excellent and the atmosphere was relaxed and unhurried allowing diners to savour their food and wine in a civilised yet informal setting. The word is spreading, so book a table soon.

The Timble Inn, Timble, North Yorkshire, LS21 2NN. Tel 01943 880530. Email [email protected] www.thetimbleinn.co.uk Open for lunch Thursday to Saturday, noon to 2pm and Sunday noon to 6pm. Dinner Thursday to Saturday from 6pm to 9pm. Six ensuite B&B rooms available.

YP MAG 19/6/10