Shaken, not stirred

Devastation was widespread in cities and in the countryside. Even so, at last week's big Chilean wine tasting the mood was upbeat with considerable optimism that much of the damage had been repaired and that life was getting back to normal. Once debris was cleared and the workers re-housed, many wineries assessed the earthquake damage as an opportunity to re-invest in new buildings and equipment.

Eventually, the earthquake may be seen as a turning point for Chile's wine industry. Since Chilean wines appeared on our shelves they have acquired a reputation for reliable, soft, ripe fruity flavours at the bargain end of the price range. Picking up a bottle of Chilean Cabernet for supper-time drinking is an easy choice and it is on that basis that Chile's share of our market has grown to almost 10 per cent. If you are looking for Sauvignon Blanc, there is a one in three chance you will choose Chile.

Since the earthquake, there has been something of a shortage and companies are less keen to give big discounts. We might have expected prices to go up, but what makes this situation interesting is that quality is going up, too. Tasting around the hundreds of wines on

show last week, I noticed an uplift in concentration, better definition and more emphasis on fruit, with wood definitely held in check.

Looking at the Cono Sur range which crops up in Waitrose, Majestic and others, I was very impressed with the Bicycle Pinot Noir 2009 (7.49, Majestic and Waitrose) for its bright strawberry fruit and mid-palate weight which means that it can accompany lamb or chicken with ease. The Bicycle Viognier 2009 (7.49, Waitrose) is stacked with apricot fruit, balanced by crisp acidity and is delicious on its own but is also good with salads, fish in creamy sauces and lightly spiced dishes. These are not just good value, they are really good wines. The reason this range is called Bicycle is because the vineyards are huge and all the workers get to their sections by bicycles which are propped up at the ends of rows.

Errazuriz is another winery that seems to be making an effort to keep quality high. Based in the relatively warm Aconcagua Valley, they have expanded towards the coast where temperatures are lower and the grapes retain more crisp aromatic notes. This was particularly evident in the Estate Chardonnay 2009 from Casablanca Valley (Majestic, 7.99) which is full of zesty pineapple flavours with no oak clouding the fruit. Crisp, crunchy and deliciously fruity I would be happy to drink this on its own, but it has enough weight and serious style to accompany food.

Moving up to the Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2009 (Majestic, 10.99) the fruit is still there but it has acquired more complexity, depth of flavour and style which makes it good enough to serve at an autumn dinner party. Their new wine, Aconcagua Costa Chardonnay 2009, which is still making its way into shops, is made from grapes grown just 15km from the sea and this shows in its delicious minerally crunch, with flavours that seem to be carried on a fresh ocean breeze.

I also like the Errazuriz Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 which normally retails at 8.19 at Waitrose, although they have managed to squeeze the price down to 5.99 from next Wednesday until October 12. This is much more serious than the standard ripe, fruity Chilean Cab with a firmness to the palate and deep cassis flavours. It is a wine to accompany food and could stand up to roast beef or strong cheese with ease.

Montes is a range which has also changed its style in recent years, removing the heavyweight wooden overcoat which used to box in the fruit of the Alpha range. Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2008 (Majestic, 11.24) now has fresh fruit flavours, still moderated by a touch of oak, but that just gives the wine weight and fullness on the palate. Montes Alpha Syrah 2007 (Waitrose, 11.49) is one of my favourites with deep Rhone-style peppery fruit balanced by a food-friendly structure.

A newcomer to the Chilean range is the grape variety Carmenre which was rediscovered a decade or so ago and is now gaining in popularity for its lush bramble fruit and light peppery notes. It was in the original consignment of cuttings sent over from France in the late 19th century, but perhaps the labels fell off these vines because it was presumed to be a very poor form of Merlot.

After more than a century it was eventually recognised as a completely different grape variety and separate plantings have been established to make the most of it.

Now everyone seems to produce a Carmenre, or at least they blend a proportion of it in Merlot and Cabernet blends where it adds chocolate and blackberry notes to the flavour.

To get a taste for this variety, try Casillero del Diablo Carmenre (Majestic, 7.49), then trade up to Terrunyo Carmenre 2007 (13.50, Penistone Wine Cellars, 01226 766037) for deeper, more complex flavours. This wine won the International Wine Challenge Trophy for the best Carmenre in the competition.

Also award-winning, from Decanter's World Wine Awards, is an exceptionally good Cabernet Franc 2007 from Loma Larga in Casablanca Valley. Cabernet Franc is a minority grape variety, grown in tiny quantities but it develops deep flavours, still with its trademark black raspberry flavour, tinged with chocolate and cherry. Field and Fawcett in York have a small parcel of this wine at 12.30. Buy a bottle and try it with game or beef.

YP MAG 18/9/10