Pronounced improvement

Such comparisons were gleaned from an old Berry Bros list dating back to 1896. It was hanging in the cellars of Balthasar Ress, a wine producer in the Rheingau who used to supply London wine merchant Berry Brothers and its prices demonstrates how fashions have changed. Where the wines of Germany were once more desirable than top Bordeaux châteaux, now they are neglected and ignored by many wine drinkers.

It could be because the flurry of cheap wine from Germany in the 1980s devalued their sweetish, mawkish flavours beyond redemption and the whole country was stamped with the same identity, making no difference between top wines and those supermarket shelf fillers. But it is more likely that our national palate moved on from the vivid sweet and sour balance of German wines to rounder, softer wines that are more immediately food friendly.

The main German grape variety may have had something to do with it too. Riesling is difficult for many people to say, never mind drink, so perhaps that is why we find ourselves in the middle of Riesling Week, an attempt by those who like to promote all things Germanic, to encourage us all to enjoy this neglected grape.

First of all the grape is called Reece-ling, not Rise-ling and this makes a difference since it sets it apart from all the naff stuff of years gone by. And then there has to be a clear understanding that Riesling is a white grape variety with crisp, almost challenging acidity and a combination of flavours that vary from ice-cool, apple and citrus notes to big apricot and pineapple-laden styles, sometimes with that characteristic whiff of petrol creating a signpost to the grape.

Petrol doesn’t sound like a desirable characteristic in a wine, and it isn’t the sharp, piercing smell you get if you overfill your tank when filling up. The petrol aroma people talk about in Riesling wines is more the scent of an almost-abandoned petrol filling station – open-air and breezy, yet with a waft of complexity that comes from concrete soaked in petrol and diesel, tempered by dust and rain.

The real home of Riesling is on the sunniest slopes of Germany’s best vineyards where there is enough sunshine to coax it to ripeness yet it is cool enough to retain that piano-wire tautness of acidity. It does well on the steep, slate-covered slopes of the Mosel where it shows glorious floral notes, balanced by an edge of sweetness and it is fabulous on the loamy soils of the Rheingau where it becomes richer, rounder and is often streaked with honeyed sweetness.

And the sweetness is not what it was. Where German wines used to be universally sweet, to the point where you couldn’t drink them with food, now it has been cut back and what remains is natural sweetness retained from the grapes, not added back like a dollop of syrup to fill the gaps in the flavour. The result is harmonious wines, with fine aromas, delicacy and finesse. Sulphur levels are back under control too allowing the flavours to shine out, without that old feeling that German wines used to give of tightness spreading across the chest like an incipient heart-attack.

I haven’t been to the Rheingau for years so I jumped at the chance to explore some of the top properties. Most of these are clustered together on the stretch of river where it takes a left turn on its run north, providing perfect south-facing slopes. Schloss Johannisberg is the historic jewel in the crown of the Rheingau, founded 1200 years ago as a Benedictine monastery and it is still surrounded by its own vineyards which were planted exclusively to Riesling in the 18th century. The monks left here several centuries ago but there is still a feeling of peace and tranquillity at this important estate, despite the coach-loads of tourists and a regular music festival.

In the company of the technical director, I tasted through just some of the wines and was delighted by the clarity and precision of the flavours. Even the basic Riesling shone with life. Light, crisp and with acidity and flavours in balance it wasn’t overwhelmingly sweet, just vibrant and alert. Moving up the quality scale more minerally notes appeared, and the sweetness level grew, but always in balance and always leaving the palate clean and fresh, not sweet and cloying. Harrogate Fine Wine (01423 522270) has a range of wines from Schloss Johannisberg starting at £18.99 and these are well worth exploring as a way to re-introduce German Riesling to your palate.

Other notable estates on this bend of the river include Schloss Vollrads and Kloster Eberbach, both of which are well worth visiting. For wine however, head to Waitrose and the excellent flavours of Künstler Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2010 (£15.49). This fine example of the new wave of German Rieslings is dry but not harshly acidic, clean as a whistle, with vibrant citrus fruit and complex aromas that will eventually head towards a petrol station, but not before gathering layers of minerality and texture.

If you feel like joining in with Riesling Week but can’t go to Germany, you could always try a splendid Rieslings from Australia or New Zealand that generally have a shade less acidity and a touch more tropical fruit. Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling 2009 (Tesco £10.29) has this, wrapped up in minerally overtones. Sainsbury’s have a terrific lime-juice infused Awatere Valley Riesling 2010 (£8.99). Either gives a gentle re-introduction to the grape that has become a stranger – Riesling.