Pipe and Glass Inn, South Dalton

Yorkshire now has six one-star restaurants, five have held their stars for quite some time and this year are joined by Yorkshire's newest star, the Pipe and Glass Inn at South Dalton, near Beverley.

Chef-proprietor James Mackenzie and his wife Kate took over the inn four years ago. They both have excellent pedigrees as protgs of the Michelin-starred, Star Inn at Harome and though similarities in the two can be found in the buildings and pretty village locations, that's about as far as it goes. It would have been easy to emulate their successful heroes, Andrew and Jackie Pern, but instead the pair have well and truly stamped their own personalities and talents on their inn.

The Pipe and Glass is still first and foremost an inn. A newly renovated bar for drinkers bears testament to that. The dining rooms are Tardis-like, being cosy and spacious at the same time. There are chunky bespoke wooden tables comfortably spaced, three separate dining areas flowing seamlessly into one culminating in a semi-private room with a table to easily seat 12.

Mirrors, lamps and tasteful bric-a-brac are unobtrusive and soften the edges, creating a sophisticated homeliness. It appears the aim is to create a relaxed and informal dining experience and this they have achieved. However, take note. Relaxed does not mean laid-back nor informal, casual. This is a tight and professional team and their friendly approach fronts a slick operation as I found out on my visit.

It started the moment I arrived. The greeting is effusive, heavy coats are whisked away and within seconds we are seated by the fire, drinks menu in hand and some rather tasty, tiny sausages to nibble on. It is a busy evening and even so we are given plenty of time to read and digest the menu plus the specials board.

The description of each dish on the menu is crafted to tease and tempt the palette and requires – well for me at least – quite a lot of time. James is passionate about his ingredients and their locality, and carefully balances flavours, textures and tastes in combinations that are sometimes unpredictable.

The wild rabbit was teamed with cockles, halibut with oxtail, haggis dressed up as a fritter, colcannon with cavolo nero (black cabbage) and bread made from the ancient spelt grain. The menu may now feature Michelin-starred food but there are also some friendly pub-food dishes like fish pie and sausages with bubble and squeak lurking around as well.

Food of this calibre and complexity requires an equally competent wine list and this too has been taken care of. It is neither intimidating nor daunting and has a wonderful array of enticing wines as vigilantly chosen as the food.

Described as a Proper Prawn Cocktail, this starter dish was simply too intriguing to pass on. After all what is a proper one – soggy prawns and limp lettuce? James's take on the 60s classic is big – it's served in an enormous glass, is bold with its deep rich sauce, and is actually rather beautiful, presented with a large, fat prawn in shell and carefully arranged tentacles balanced on top.

Wild rabbit rissoles with a cockle and salty caper sauce was more reserved. The rissoles were soft and light and surprisingly so was the taste, I had expected stronger from a wild rabbit. The combination with the saline prickle of the cockles and the salty bite of capers however was sublime.

Not for the faint-hearted was a main course of roast loin of red deer, juniper creamed cabbage, thyme rosti, haggis fritter and stewed redcurrants – phew. The deer, though roasted was so tender a spoon would have cut through it and the haggis a clever, thoughtful accompaniment that complemented the deer. The spicing of the cabbage was understated, allowing all the other flavours on the plate to harmonise and flow. An extremely clever and accomplished dish.

Wild Halibut was equally accomplished. The fish was a thick slab of staggeringly white, soft, flaky fish with an ultra thin crispy skin and a few decadent slices of black truffle on top. It sat on a bed of meaty, deep flavoured oxtail and tiny diced vegetables with the Colcannon served alongside in a delightful, tiny copper sauteuse.

Who could resist a dessert called 5 Reasons to Love Chocolate. It does exactly as it says on the tin, pulling you in so that you can't help falling for it – white chocolate crme brle, chocolate and coffee mousse, chocolate brownie, white and dark chocolate ganache and mint chocolate chip ice cream. Heaven on a plate and enough to share. There was also a plate of delicious, carefully sourced British cheeses with biscuits served in a cutesy miniature Kilner jar, chutney and celery.

Yorkshire's newest star is not pretentious as some would claim Michelin-starred food to be. It is informal but precise and exacting in

its standards of food, drink, service and ambience.

It has its finger firmly planted on the pulse of the best in British food, sourced, where possible, locally and of the best quality.

Pricing is sensible – dinner for two with wine was 102 which for food and wines of this quality is reasonable and bearing in mind the pub classics are much cheaper. If you need somewhere to stay, they now have two lovely rooms, I'll remember that on my next visit. Long may their star shine.

The Pipe and Glass Inn, West End, South Dalton, Beverley, HU17 7PN.

Tel: 01430 810246.

Food served Tuesday-Friday: noon-2pm and 6.30pm-9.30pm. Saturday: Noon-11pm. Sunday: Noon-4pm.