Happy days here again

All this has changed in the two years since new owners Simon Baile and Henry Young bought Oddbins and now, with 128 shops, they have cleared out the old stock and are filling the shelves with what they call "honest, interesting wines".

"Virtually the whole range has changed and there are 700 new lines on the shelves," said Baile when I met up with him at the Oddbins tasting.

"We want to offer something different, so our main focus is on small family businesses which are making good wine. We are also very interested in the whole business of natural wines, that is, wines made organically and biodynamically, and we are going back to the original concept of Oddbins, by buying up parcels of wine that we can put through the shops, and, when they are gone, they are gone."

This is a huge task for the pair, who until two years ago were running four shops in the south of England and in Paris.

"We knew that Oddbins was up for sale and were looking to expand into a few more shops, but we ended up buying the whole company."

This would have been a daunting challenge for most people but Baile has experience with Oddbins. His father, Nick Baile, was the driving force behind the company in the 1970s, taking it from local group to national chain.

"I spent my school holidays shifting cases of wine." And by going into business with his brother-in-law, Henry, Baile has maintained this as a family business, apart from the backers who put up the necessary millions to buy it.

"To be honest, Oddbins is the best brand on the High Street. Everyone remembers it in its heyday and the shops are in the best locations on the High Street," said Baile.

"And, surprisingly, we still have just a few of the original staff, who remember the way things used to be."

So now with a new buying team and with the firm intention of sourcing vibrant, interesting wines from around the world, Oddbins looks set to regain its image and its customers.

If you are prepared to splash out on a dozen, then you'll get a 20 per cent discount and Oddbins delivers orders over 100 free.

I tasted through 100 or so of their new range and was impressed with the way they have avoided the big corporate brands and stuffed the shelves with a mix of small growers' wines, quality names and, frankly, some I have never heard of.

It is an exciting range that breaks free from the stranglehold of big brands that dominate the major supermarkets, and one that makes Oddbins well worth a visit. Here is my selection of a mixed dozen which puts Oddbins back at the serious end of the High Street.

Cheverny Domaine de Lry 2009, Loire, France 9.99: Brilliant citrus and minerally flavours from this 80:20 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay from a little-known Loire AOC. With distinct French style and a more rounded palate than just a straight Sauvignon, this is a great wine to team up with any kind of fish.

Chablis Cuve Amandine 2008 France 12.99: It is so easy to get Chablis completely wrong, but Oddbins has gone to independent producer Domaine des Malandes and sourced this soft, minerally, citrus-charged wine, with no oak, to get roundness on the palate and a long, gentle finish. Classy.

Grner Veltliner 'Groovey' Salomon 2009, Austria, 7.99: It is such a pity that this grape variety is so difficult to say, because this version is really easy to drink. That's why they have called it Groovey and, frankly, as long as you can ask for that, you will be happy with the ripe apples and pears fruit, dusted with white pepper and clean dry finish. Great with calamari.

3 Amigos 2007, Margaret River, Australia 12.99: David Hohnen, the man who invented Cloudy Bay is behind this wine, and he has captured the aromatic, herb-tinged nutty fruit of Marsanne, Chardonnay and Roussanne grapes, all grown in the cool, sea-breezey climate of Western Australia. It has soft, food-friendly complexity. Try it.

D'Arenberg The Hermit Crab 2008, Australia 10.99: There's ripe peachy apricot fruit from 72 per cent Viognier in this wine, with clean balancing weight coming from 28 per cent Marsanne. It is soft, mouth-filling and creamy and positively tastes of sunshine. The name comes from the small fossils found in the soil, in this inland part of South Australia.

Cable Station Road Sauvignon Blanc 2009, New Zealand, 8.99: One of a flurry of New Zealand Sauvignons and one that lifts itself above the usual pea-pod and pineapple flavour range. This one has all the right citrus and green-edged fruit, but it has gravelly crunch, too. Drink it with fish, salads and goat's cheese.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir Domaine des Marchaudes 2007, Burgundy, 9.99: A humble Bourgogne Pinot with more flavour than many classier appellations. This has distinct, fragrant, cherry and blackcurrant fruit, perfectly balanced with a smooth, elegant

long finish. Bourgogne Rouge as it should be.

Aglianico Vigna del Sasso IGT 2006, Campania, Italy, 11.99: One of Italy's lesser-known varieties but its ripe plummy fruit, laced with tobacco and herbs, is a joy to drink with pastas and cheese.

El Quintanal DO 2009, Ribera del Duero, Spain, 9.99: This is the friendly face of Ribera del Duero, made by a small co-operative in this fashion-conscious region, with lightly spiced cherry and plum flavours that are ready to enjoy when you get them home.

Matetic Coralillo Syrah 2008, San Antonio, Chile, 14.99: 100 per cent Syrah from this organic estate in the cool hills of San Antonio and 100 per cent warm, spiced plummy fruit that goes well with all kinds of roasted meats. As part of a case, the price comes down to just 11.99.

Dhu Tradition Brut NV Champagne, 23.99: It is a delight to get away from the standard big brands and try this terrific, fresh-tasting, complex, toasty wine.

Drappier Grande Sendre 2002, Champagne 44.99: Oddbins plans to make its reputation on champagne, and if it continues along these lines, it is set to win. Bright, lively fruit backed by serious, creamy complexity, and at the case price of 35.99, a bargain.

YP MAG 15/5/10