You would struggle to find a county as steeped in fabulous food and hospitality as here in Yorkshire, and even despite everything thrown at it in recent years, the standard here is still so high. There is so much to choose from, and I am always thrilled to discover new places, but I also delight in revisiting old favourites, which is why we were recently in the Gujrati restaurant Mango in Wetherby. Although I will admit, I was shocked when I realised it had been six years since my first visit because it felt like yesterday.

Since then, a swish makeover of the décor was carried out during Lockdown making it a much brighter and less cluttered place than my memory recalls. I am so happy to see owner Rekha Sonigra still very much at the stove from which she cooks the food from her home in the west Indian state of Gujarat, recipes she learned from her mother and grandmother and which she has perfected over the years. Gujarati food has evolved and adapted to create dishes revolving around seasonal, local produce and complementary spicing, according to Rekha, and this is what she offers at Mango.

On my first visit, Rekha’s daughter Alouki was single-handedly managing the front-of-house though now she is seemingly more in the kitchen, replaced by a charming small team of young people plus her father. Together, they are more than capable of handling what is now a bustling restaurant with a refreshingly pleasant attitude endearing me even further to this lovely place. At 7 pm, Mango is packed, and any empty tables are soon filled. Clearly, they are doing something right.

The menu, as much as I remember, is the same; it certainly looks familiar, and I love that I have no idea what most of the dishes are, so if it’s a Korma or Biryani et al. you want, then this is not the place for you. Oh, and did I mention Mango is vegetarian? The last time I had to almost drag my husband here, the thought of dinner without meat did not go well with him. But I must hand it to Mango; their food was the start of him accepting, nay, enjoying vegetarian food, and we happily eat meat-free several times a week now; so, thank you so much for that.

Starters will sound familiar with bhajis, samosas and Indian rolls, but more enticing are Methi na gota (battered fenugreek infused bhajis) and maroo bhaji (battered thin slices of potato). I, however, hop straight to the Chaat, the small savoury snacks with aromatic spicing and tangy sauces often referred to as Indian street food as it is sold from carts and make-shift stalls at bazaars. My prettily arranged sev dahl puris of small crisp pastries are filled with chickpeas, potatoes, date and tamarind sauce, spiced yoghurt and topped with pomegranate, gram vermicelli, red onion, and coriander and are so good. I bite them, and an explosion of taste from the flavours merging all at once delivers a massive hit on my tongue. Mango’s special Chaat had the same reaction across the way, but as a potato patty, was a different texture but with equally explosive flavours from crushed black chickpeas, a tingling masala yoghurt alongside chutneys and pickles and the same garnish as above.

We could have continued with Dosa but learned from our earlier visit not to over-order tempting as these savoury crêpes are. Nevertheless, I am longing for a bowl of their tarka dahl. Though a much-abused dish of varying quality in Britain, here it is delicious. Rekha makes hers with a five lentil daal, which she flavours assiduously with spices, garlic and ginger. I am in heaven as I greedily mop it up with chunks of soft paratha, which I have been watching Rekha energetically rolling out to order and cooking quickly in the flames of her stove.

Methi malai kofta is listed on the menu as award-winning; it doesn’t say what award, but I can think of several this could scoop up. First, the fenugreek and vegetable koftas are soft and beautifully spiced. The gravy is thick, deep-flavoured, and richly moreish, especially when eaten with flaky Peshwari naan. And finally, despite my protestation that I couldn’t eat another thing, we ordered and ate two large servings of creamy, refreshing Kulfi, after which it was time to stop.

This family-run restaurant is lovely; it wears its quality so lightly and quietly but could knock spots off so many of the better-known Indian restaurants out there. I hope they just keep doing what they are doing, and I apologise to Wetherby, who may have wanted their treasure on Bank Street to themselves, but you heard it here; this place is brilliant.

Mango, 12-14 Bank St, Wetherby LS22 6NQ (dine in and takeaway but no delivery) Tel: 01937 585755 - Dinner for two with wine £89.00. Open: Wed-Sat, 5am-11pm,booking is advisable.

Gujarati restaurant Mango in Wetherby is still excelling in vegetarian food