El Gato Negro, Ripponden

When Simon and business partner Chris Williams, left successful careers with Harvey Nichols in London and returned North to open the Spanish-style restaurant, there was much talk on how the concept so dependent on sunshine and sangria could possibly work. Added to which, they were flying in the face of fashion. At the time most were turning their eyes to local produce and food miles, while this pair were directly importing food from Spain. Endless awards later, they have proved the

sceptics wrong.

Whether it is the recent triumph on TV, or simply the winning formula of El Gato, on the night of my visit it was packed. Clatter and the chatter, staff running around, and amazing aromas; were it not for the abundance of Yorkshire stone and the beamed ceiling I would have sworn I was in a Spanish bar.

The first offering is a paper menu and pencil. The ordering system is easy. Read the menu (the Spanish dishes may be intimidating but staff are eager to explain everything), tick the box next to whichever dish takes your fancy. Be warned. We were advised to choose two maybe three each. We didn't listen, ordered four each and were overwhelmed with food. There are snacks from the bar, hams and salamis, meat, fish, breads cheese, fish and plenty for vegetarians to choose from.

The food arrives in the order the kitchen dictates so all that's left is to sit back and enjoy our bar snacks; shiny, fat marinated olives, a dish of addictive, roasted corn kernels and punchy, powerful, Padron Peppers with Maldon sea salt (not for the faint hearted).

At 10, a plate of Spanish meats is close to the most expensive dish (Acorn fed Jamon Iberico is tops at 15, and Baby Monkfish, Roasted Squid tentacles, 12.50 next). It's worth every penny for the wafer thin slices of Salchichon, Lomo, Jamon Serrano, Chorizo Magno and Artisan Leon and Fuet de Vic (a Catalonian dried, cured sausage). I recommend eating the meats with pillow-soft garlicky Catalan bread – a divine combination.

The food flowed. Warm octopus with pink fir apples, sat alongside fat, juicy Gambas which we dipped into a creamy aioli or slathered on Chorizo and chili butter. Roasted cod shimmered on a plate dressed with braised salsify and Shimeji mushrooms, bathed in horseradish velout.

The one change of the original concept at El Gato is the introduction of a few British ingredients and dishes. Tender Gressingham duck comes

with squeaky, green savoy cabbage, chestnuts and Pancetta. You will also find Cheshire Pork Cheek and a dish of Yorkshire beetroot and young goats' curd all playing nicely with their Spanish cousins.

It's not all fancy food on the menu. The true tapas stalwarts are there with a thick, squashy tortilla and hot spicy Patatas Bravas. Though you may think the lowly lentil would struggle with all the spices and flavourings on offer, creamy, cumin-scented lentils give most of the dishes a kick. They are just lovely and easily one of my favourite dishes.

Despite initially being overwhelmed every scrap of food was eaten. The blowout for the taste buds meant any form of pudding was out of the question, just a plate of regional Spanish cheeses sufficed. Again, Simon had carefully chosen cheeses which balanced together and offered different taste and texture experiences, a fig and almond wheel and quince paste brought sweetness, and all were immaculately presented on a slate.

The success of tapas rests with good, fresh ingredients, bold flavours and daring combinations.

All of these Simon does to an amazing level. Tapas are sociable fellows and conversation should flow with the food as support.

But, at El Gato it is hard not to talk about the food – or who was greedy enough to take the last prawn. It is a tough call on the kitchen to provide a seamless flow of dishes and unfortunately there were some periods when the table was bare. But that is my only minor criticism on what was an tremendous meal.

Despite over ordering, the bill with a few glasses of wine (the wine list is as competent as the food by the way) came to a respectable 59; go midweek or for lunch on a weekend and there are often special deals on food and wine.

El Gato Negro Tapas, Oldham Road, Ripponden, HX64DN. Telephone: 01422 823070. Open Wed-Fri: 6pm – 9.30pm, Sat: noon-2pm and 6pm-10pm, Sun: 12.30pm-6.30pm.

YP MAG 10/4/10