Chef profile - Lionel Strub, The Clarendon at Hebden

Despite the horror of the locals that this would become some outpost of fancy French fare, he proved their fears were quickly unfounded. The Clarendon at Hebden near Grassington has many fans, but it is the locals who have taken and embraced Lionel’s tender care of their precious pub most to their hearts.

He changed little, save a good sprucing up; his menu does have both a modern and French feel in parts, but it also has cracking pub food that people travel from across Yorkshire and further afield for.

He has received many accolades for the pub but his most recent of Outstanding Contribution Award at the Yorkshire Evening Post Oliver Awards in March touched him beyond words. The judges said of him, “he is more a Yorkshireman than many might know”. The award came just before lockdown so sadly few heard of his honour. As soon as he is up and running again though, I know where I am heading.

What was the first dish you cooked? On a quiet night, eight months into my first year of apprenticeship, my head chef put me in charge of the fish section. What I cooked, I can’t remember but what I do remember is this was the first time I felt the adrenaline rush from cooking under pressure and the satisfaction that I had cooked a dish well. Forty years on and I still feel that way.

Where or who do you get your culinary inspiration from? The beautiful ingredients on my doorstep from passionate farmers, growers and gamekeepers; it is no surprise that we source 80 per cent of our menu within three miles of the pub. The lamb comes from Matt Mason, a sheep farmer in Appletreewick, Graham Binns, the head gamekeeper and a great friend at Grimwith Estate, provides me with fantastic game. There’s Jonathan Jowett from Hebden trout farm, providing the pub with the freshest trout, the allotment crew with the freshest vegetable and fruit and I could go on.

What was your first cookery book? Le Guide Culinaire by Auguste Escoffier 1903, every chef should own a copy. I was recently made a disciple of Escoffier. I had the privilege to meet his grandson Michel who shared his memories of being around the most influential chef that ever lived.

Who would be your three dream dinner guests? My first is Auguste Escoffier. He was the first French chef to move to the UK and became the King of chefs and the chef of a king. Micky Flanagan because his sketch about the French is the funniest thing I have ever heard. Nelson Mandela, because he never gave up on his beliefs. I know it is only three, but given the current circumstances, I would also love to invite Captain Sir Tom Moore – he is a genuine hero.

What is your guilty food pleasure? Thai food. Having been to Thailand many times, I am blown away by the food culture, the array of fresh spices, fruits and vegetables.

What is your favourite ingredient? Garlic, of course, I am French. With its unique flavour and versatility, I could not cook without it.

What are you doing during this enforced break? Apart from decorating my pub and getting our new menu ready, I am halfway through

writing my second book Tales from the Dales about the incredible products, the people and their great stories of the National Park.