Cafe No 8, York review: Old Gillygate favourite still has plenty to offer after 20 years

Twenty years ago, chef and co-owner of No 8 Chris Pragnell opened for business, with business partner Martin Gore arriving two years later. And something is working, as together, with just a small handful of staff, here they are in 2022. Not for one minute do I imagine it could have been easy; they have been operating in some turbulent times.

Choosing Gillygate to open the small café-bistro must have contributed to its longevity. The busy street within striking distance of the Minster is one of my favourites in York and is chock full of small independent, exciting, vibrant businesses which complement them well.

With a narrow frontage, it is easy to miss No 8 unless you are specifically looking for it. But don’t be fooled; though not large with just a handful of tables, the kitchen, and a tiny bar, beyond is a cosy garden room for dining and outside, a delightful small courtyard butting up to the city walls.

When we arrived, it was quiet in No 8 with just a few diners but soon there was a constant stream coming for the few hours we were there, and some disappointed walk-ins turned away. Of course, you might strike lucky to show up, but it’s best to book.

Reading my notes from our visit, I have written that this place is so clean and neat. Every table, nook and cranny is spotless; clearly, someone cares to give the right impression. Tables are generously spaced, and my restaurateur-eye clocks how they could easily squeeze a few more in. But I am glad they don’t, as though a small room, this way it feels more spacious than it is, and post-Covid also safe.

From where we are seated, the kitchen is in full view, and I am mesmerised by the small functional space from where Chris, and a sous chef, cook. They never flap, and there is no theatrics; this is simply a calm, organised and efficient space – indeed, it was when I was there, and I can’t speak of any other time.

I was pleased to see the menu is relatively short and sweet to work well in the restricted space. However, though short is filled with a variety of dishes such as slow-cooked ragu’s, char-grilled meats, fish and vegetarian food on offer. Each comes with a carefully thought-through mêlée of vegetables, garnishes, and sauces to create substantial plates of food.

My grilled goat’s cheese starter is something of a French classic. Unfortunately, here, the two slices of Chevre, are I dare to suggest, blow-torched, not grilled, as the outside was warm but the centre cold. This was a slight shame because the beauty of this dish is the cheese should be just warm to the point of starting to melt alongside the luscious honey-sticky figs. I love walnuts with goat’s cheese but was more than happy with the crunchy pine nuts, plus a few pea shoots added a bit of green. Even with the cold cheese, no scrap went back to the kitchen.

Another starter was chunks of a fruity, spice-packed black pudding that came with crispy bacon and candied apples, all precariously balanced on an excellent remoulade, which was heard from across the table to be better than any recently eaten in France.

Pan-fried fillets of sea bream looked lovely, snuggled down into a dish of roast tomatoes, with capers, chunks of roast sweet potato, fennel, charred broccoli, and bathed with a supreme prawn bisque. Chris and his sous chef had produced an expert piece of cooking, and from what I tasted, I was jealous, wishing I had ordered it as there was no denying it was delicious.

Another plate bursting with an array of food was my wild mushroom and feta Wellington. There was a lovely heap of meaty mushrooms in the pastry though the feta had slipped out and melted into the vegetables; I did not care. The whole dish was delightful to eat and skillfully cooked with a dizzying parade of colours, tastes, and textures in the vegetables.

Less pretty, yet still with the now expected busyness on the plate, was a fresh raspberry and poached peach-filled meringue with vanilla mascarpone, raspberry sauce and toasted almonds. Another empty plate went back to the kitchen.

What a surprise and delight Café No 8 had turned out to be. If you want fancy and pretentious, then this is not for you. The word café understates this place; for me, bistro sums it up beautifully. Although No 8 is not purporting to be French, if I think of my favourite French places to eat, No 8 resonates with everything I love about them and is what Chris, Martin, and everyone involved here provide in abundance.

They are about good food delivered with warm and professional service but without fuss. You can ask for no more when spending your hard-earned cash eating out. Who cares if they use paper napkins? Oh, and the prices are good too.

Café No 8, 8 Gillygate, York YO31 7EQ Tel: 01904 653074

Dinner for two with a couple of glasses of wine £85

Open: Wed – Sat 5pm – 10pm, Sun 12 – 3.30pm