Andes hit a quality peak

Since then there has been a rush of money into the country, and with it has come winemaking expertise as well as knowledge of worldwide markets. Argentina's wines are not just tasting better than ever, they have quality that is recognised internationally and wine exports have grown to be the seventh largest in the world.

Argentina's wine regions are clustered in the west of the country, mostly in the province of Mendoza, in the shadow of the Andes. These magnificent mountains, snow-capped all year round, block out most of the rain, so vineyards are dependent on mountain water which flows through irrigation channels dug out centuries ago. Without this water the whole area would be desert.

The secret to Argentina's pure-tasting fruit lies in the clear air of this unpolluted western outpost and the altitude of the vineyards. As the Andes rose up, they created a ripple effect, like a tablecloth spreading out across the landscape and it is these ripples, at varying altitudes which provide the ideal growing conditions for the many grape varieties.

Malbec is Argentina's signature grape. Originally from south west France where it is known as Ct, it was brought over by immigrant workers in the late 19th century. But it has settled in the sunshine of Mendoza and produces much deeper, damsony fruit and bigger flavours than it ever did in France. It is not only good on its own, but it blends well, sharing the limelight with the usual grapes such as Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is also adaptable enough to blend with some of Europe's more distinctive varieties, such as Touriga Nacional, Tempranillo and Petit Verdot, creating a style of wine which is instantly recognisable as South American, but with a streak of northern Hemisphere style and balance.

One of the most dramatic entries into the UK market has come from Herv and Diane Joyaux Fabre who have developed a range of wines under the Vialba label. Originally from Bordeaux, Herv and Diane came to Argentina looking for a place to make wine and they settled in sight of the Andes at Vistalba in Lujn de Cuyo. They also decided on another vineyard in the south on the edge of Patagonia, a vast wild area where altitudes are just a little higher and temperatures definitely cooler. All was going well, with a limited production of two ranges of wine, but two years ago they decided to expand and came up with their new label, made from a mix of own grapes and some bought in from neighbours. The style is different, too, softer, rounder, and full of fruit and while oak is used on some of the wines, it is definitely less obvious and less tannic than before. For sheer value and lush chocolate-edged damson and blackcurrant fruit, head to Asda where Vialba Patagonian Malbec Syrah 2008 blend is down from its usual 7.62 to 5.79 until November 8. This is a delicious wine and is soft enough to sip while you are cooking dinner, but it will magically expand to complement red meat dishes, roast chicken or just a bowl of pasta.

Majestic has the even more delicious Reserve Malbec Touriga Nacional 2008, normally 9.99 but now on offer until November 8 at 8.49 on multibuy. Touriga is one of the main grape varieties grown in the Douro in Portugal and it gives the power and structure to Port and Douro reds. There is only a tiny amount of it grown in Argentina but it adds a hint of violets and even darker mulberry fruit to the mix. Make sure you have a good steak to accompany this wine.

Another relatively new arrival to Argentina is Jos Manuel Ortega from Spain who runs O. Fournier based in the Uco Valley, a region that was bare earth 20 years ago and is now planted almost continuously with vines. Fairly high in altitude, with the Andes on the horizon, this region has warm, sunny days but night temperatures plunge as soon as the sun goes down and the mornings are crisp, clear and distinctly chilly. This allows the vines to rest overnight and retain acidity in the grapes which translate as crisp, vibrant flavours in the wine, perfectly ripe with balance, persistence and concentration.

Named after the Southern Cross stars which shine brightly in the night skies of the Uco Valley, B Crux is a blend of Tempranillo and Malbec, oak aged for 12 months. I loved its raspberry and redcurrant notes among the darker fruits, a sure sign of cool growing conditions, but there is deep complexity with liquorice, chocolate and a touch of spice on the finish.

This is far too powerful to drink on its own, and I would need the first, crusty slice from a good joint of beef to accompany this wine. The Halifax Wine Company has the 2006 vintage which is ready now, for 13.50.

O. Fournier also produces a terrific white crisp, aromatic Torronts. This is the local white grape variety which has some Muscat-like aromas, but it is essentially light, fragrant and thirst-quenching. Perfect on a summer's day, it is also good in autumn as an aperitif and with Asian cuisine. Always go for the youngest available vintage of this grape, Halifax (www.halifaxwinecompany.com) has the 2009 Urban Torronts at 7.49, while Majestic has a particularly good version from Susana Balbo 2009 at 7.99.

Not all of Argentina's best wines come from the new wave of money flooding into the country. I have a particular liking for the wines of Zuccardi, not least because Jos Alberto Zuccardi made the effort to come to Yorkshire to show his wines a few years ago. For good straightforward, full-flavoured fruit, try Santa Rosa Shiraz Malbec 2009 from Harrogate Fine Wine (01423 522270)

at 5.99.

YP MAG 25/9/10