Flamborough: Haunting tales and history around one of Yorkshire's most well-known landmarks

There is perhaps - on a wild weather day - nothing quite as dramatic along Yorkshire’s coastline as the sight of a lighthouse stood out at sea alone as storm clouds swirl above and the violent North Sea crashes below.

Neither is there anything more spectacular to watch as nature does what it does free of the constraints and pressures that modern day life puts upon us.

We are reminded when observing such scenes, how powerful nature is and, regardless of the technology and social media advancements of the last few decades, that this sight in front of us, is largely indifferent to the same scenario over the last several hundred years.

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It is refreshing (sometimes literally), and increasingly rarer, these days to be able to take these moments and reflect upon them for what they are and what they might mean to you.

Village of the week.
Flamborough North Landing.
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan GawthorpeVillage of the week.
Flamborough North Landing.
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe
Village of the week. Flamborough North Landing. 20th December 2023. Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe

For anyone that grew up within two hours inland from the stunning setting that is Flamborough on the east coast, I am sure there would have been a family trip here at some stage.

The village of Flamborough finds itself somewhere between a quiet community and a tourist route to see one of the most popular and well-known sights in Yorkshire.

Further up the coast at the likes of Whitby, Sandsend, Runswick Bay and Staithes, these coastal locations - beautiful and rich in history as they are - have arguably become a victim of their own success.

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Second home owners and holiday home demands have transformed these communities into something a lot of locals no longer recognise, not to mention the ‘tourist’ priced fish and chips, pints and parking problems.

The remains of Flamborough Castle.
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan GawthorpeThe remains of Flamborough Castle.
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe
The remains of Flamborough Castle. 20th December 2023. Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe

Flamborough, you sense, hasn’t quite been taken over in such a way. It doesn’t have that postcard kerb appeal in some ways and is less ‘flash’. It is absolutely more ‘real’.

The village itself has maybe 2,200 residents or thereabouts but, in addition there are some ‘other’ residents as locals tell of a tale of the village being haunted.

Jenny Gallows was a young woman reputed to have committed suicide by jumping into a well and apparently, if you walk around what is now a quarry eight times, her ghost will appear and chase you.

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Light and voice like sounds have been noted and the area continues to be a source of interest for paranormal investigators.

St Oswald's Parish Church, the 12th century and grade II listed focal point for the village. 
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan GawthorpeSt Oswald's Parish Church, the 12th century and grade II listed focal point for the village. 
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe
St Oswald's Parish Church, the 12th century and grade II listed focal point for the village. 20th December 2023. Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe

Houses are a real mix of former farmhouses and converted farm buildings, white chalky cottages, bungalows and pockets of uniform modern housing developments.

A focal point in the village is St Oswald’s Church. It is 12th century, listed and one of only two churches in Yorkshire to retain a 15th to 16th century rood screen (which separates the chancel and the clergy from the nave where lay people gathered).

There are of course, given the location and surroundings, a number of campsites, caravan parks and holiday accommodation - although unlike other popular places there have been attempts to manage the effect of that.

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Last year, residents hailed a victory for common sense after a holiday let dubbed the ‘Love Island villa on East Yorkshire’s coast’ was unanimously refused planning permission by councillors.

Traditional cottages in the village of Flamborough.
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan GawthorpeTraditional cottages in the village of Flamborough.
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe
Traditional cottages in the village of Flamborough. 20th December 2023. Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe

Six-bedroomed house, The Eaves, with an outdoor swimming pool and hot tub was the subject of numerous complaints after being sold to a company and marketed as the “famous villa”.

East Riding councillors were told of “anti social behaviour, noise, profanities, screaming, shouting, singing and the smell of narcotics” and refused the retrospective application to change the designation of the property on South Sea Road from house to house and holiday let – overturning the officers’ recommendation of approval.

Over recent years there have been other objections to developments aimed at tourism.

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When there were plans to develop holiday lodges on a paddock, the treasurer of Flamborough Residents’ Association (FRA), said: “Flamborough relies on tourism for its economy but we have got to the stage where we have enough accommodation in the village.”

Flamborough has a number of pubs and clubs, shops and local businesses like a sweet shop, boutique, butcher, supermarket and a florist.

The Dog and Duck is a popular pub, known for a fire and a well stocked bar.

Flamborough's second lighthouse which is in use today and flashes red to distinguish it to vessels at sea from the lighthouse at Cromer.
Lighthouse.
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan GawthorpeFlamborough's second lighthouse which is in use today and flashes red to distinguish it to vessels at sea from the lighthouse at Cromer.
Lighthouse.
20th December 2023.
Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe
Flamborough's second lighthouse which is in use today and flashes red to distinguish it to vessels at sea from the lighthouse at Cromer. Lighthouse. 20th December 2023. Picture Jonathan Gawthorpe

After a potter through the village, a long country lane, simply named Lighthouse Road, takes you to one of the most fascinating locations for Yorkshire fishing and smuggling history.

There are two lighthouses here at Flamborough Head.

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The original is also known as the Beacon Tower and Old Flamborough Lighthouse.

A hexagonal structure, it was built in 1674 and is the oldest surviving complete lighthouse in England.

At night it is said that a fire was lit on the tower’s flat roof, although another story suggests that fire burned in a metal basket hanging over the parapet, and the tower was built as a commercial venture with ships expected to pay a fee for safe passage when they put into the next harbour based on the weight of their cargoes.

However, many mariners are said to have simply denied passing Flamborough or refused to pay and the builder, Sir John Clayton, eventually declared himself bankrupt and the tower fell into disuse.

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Since 1952 the structure has been Grade II listed and a Scheduled Monument. In 1996 it had major restoration with financial help from East Yorkshire Council and English Heritage and the Chalk Tower is now looked after by an active Friends community group.

The current lighthouse cost £8000 to build and was first lit on December 1, 1806. It had two white flashes followed by a red flash which was to distinguish Flamborough's lighthouse from the one at Cromer.

The last lighthouse keepers left Flamborough Lighthouse in 1996 after it became automatic but it remains in use today and is grade II listed.

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