University of Leeds professors make 'better than retinol' skincare serum from waste mandarin skins

Two University of Leeds academics have harnessed the antioxidant powers of waste mandarin peel to create a sustainable new range of high-performance skincare products with benefits they believe exceed those of retinol and other so-called beauty super-ingredients.
Stephanie Smith
By Stephanie Smith
Published 12th Oct 2022, 14:29 BST
Updated 12th Oct 2022, 14:37 BST

Professor Richard Blackburn and Professor Chris Rayner have worked with partners in China, where 90 per cent of the world’s mandarins are grown. Their skins are incinerated due to their slow biodegradation rate, but the academics have worked out how to extract their nutrients and turn that costly waste product into the Dr Craft Mandarin range, which contains a natural cocktail of antioxidant ingredients with Hesperidin and Narirutin, and bioflavonoids to help prevent oxidative stress, repair, protect, soothe and calm skin.

There is a Mandarin Soothing Cream Cleanser, particularly good for dry, sensitive and mature types; a Gentle Brightening Exfoliator, with hemp fibre which is much kinder than walnut seeds or salts; a Purifying Toning Mist for between cleansing and moisturising; and an Antioxidant Rescue Serum, an intensive product with niacinamide, which helps reduce environmental damage, repairs and improves skin tone.

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Dr Craft is a brand created to develop skincare products made from nature and designed by science, using natural ingredients and innovative green chemistry to develop sustainable, clean extraction processes for active ingredients to use in beauty products. Co-founder Professor Richard Blackburn received his Professorship in Sustainable Materials, rewarded for 20 years of research in sustainability, in 2021. He has worked with brands such as Estée Lauder, L'Oréal, Boots and John Lewis to create sustainable cosmetic and haircare products. He hit the headlines when he used the by-product of Ribena to make the world’s first range of blackcurrant hair dyes.

More than 90 per cent of the world's mandarins are grown in China, with their skins unable to biodegrade quickly. But now Leeds University scientists have extracted their nutrients to create skincare products that they say are better than using retinol.More than 90 per cent of the world's mandarins are grown in China, with their skins unable to biodegrade quickly. But now Leeds University scientists have extracted their nutrients to create skincare products that they say are better than using retinol.
More than 90 per cent of the world's mandarins are grown in China, with their skins unable to biodegrade quickly. But now Leeds University scientists have extracted their nutrients to create skincare products that they say are better than using retinol.

Co-founder Professor Chris Rayner has over 30 years’ experience in the chemistry of natural products and is the author of more than 100 publications.

Dr Craft products are available from Wakefield-based beauty brand Face the Future and Dr Craft at facethefuture.co.uk and drcraft.co.uk.

Related topics:University of LeedsChinaBootsJohn Lewis